Sojourner in Belize

Leaving Belize

2010-04-17T13:42:00.000-07:00

Our time in Belize has come to an end. We are in Cancun presently and will have one day of leisure tomorrow before we fly to Barbados on Thursday April 22nd. It was by a funny coincidence that we realized the Bishop of Belize will be flying on the same plane as us and hopefully we will have a chance to get together.

The memories of the welcoming kindness we have received has been truly overwhelming. I could never have imagined living in a community that included 180 students acknowledging my existence everyday and calling out Miss Sandy with such excitement each time I would walk to the market, take a swim or even walk along the highway. Children would hang out of windows,run out of their backyards, yell from the other side of the road or even yell out of a car window......all going out of their way to say hello. One day while we were walking across the road after taking a swim, a bus stopped on the highway to let out passengers and children yelled "Father Andrew, Miss Sandy". We could not help but laugh as it was impossible to be anonymous anywhere in Corozal. Andy jokingly asked.........where do they come from? The highlight of my time here was definitely being with the children. Here are some other memories I would like to share.

Artist Walter Castillo moved to Belize from Nicaragua. He custom painted all our favourite places on Caye Caulker including our blue house. He painted Andy playing a guitar in the front of the house, TJ jumping into the water and James snorkelling. In the painting, I am standing beside Andy.
Graham Sampson moved to Belize from the UK 40 years ago and was an educator in the schools before retirement. He is not really retired though as he is never still. He is a huge asset to the church as a layman. His knowledge and kindess was appreciated.
I think this will have to be rebuilt!
Cecile from the Diocese Office in Belize City takes us out for lunch. Yummy red snapper!
Belize City Harbour
On a Roll Bus takes students to and from Corozal Community College.
Andy plays the guitar in our home.
A Cluster of Apple Bananas in our backyard.
The Diocese Guest House where we stay when we overnight in Belize City.
Corozal Town Hall.
Belizean Rum, quality Canadian history
Caye Caulker Airport Strip!
Buying a produce from Irene for the last time in Belize City. Her stall is just before the Swing Bridge in a very colorful area of the city.
Our little blue house on stilts nestled in the tropical almond trees in Caye Caulker. Our front yard is sand and all the roads on the Island as made of sand as well.
After months of taking children's photos, they want to take one of me!
Our farewell Party the Lady's Guild hosted at our house. They brought enough food for two days!
At the end of our sailing/snorkelling day to the Barrier Reef with Patrick and Jacob our Captain and Mate.
Easter Sunday. The flowers were picked outdoors by parishioners.
Everyday is Market Day. One of my favourite vendors.
I was the one who got a million times more happiness by giving the candy. The children live five houses away but until this day, had yet to meet.
Marco has been incredibly kind to us. We have lost count of the amount of time he has come to our rescue either by fixing something or giving the best advice.
TJ and I enjoying a warm evening next to our house. Well actually every night was warm.
Principal Mrs Rogers presenting us with gifts.
Our Last School Church Service.

Barracudas, Coconuts and Mayan Chocolate

2010-04-08T16:43:00.000-07:00

I am sitting in the shade of our blue wooden deck overlooking the glittering Caribbean Sea. It is 8 AM and the temperature is hot and humid. We are on Caye Caulker which is a 45 minute boat ride from Belize City but truly a world apart. The Island has a population of 1300, signs that proclaim "No Shirt, No Shoes…….No Problem" and the only traffic here is that of golf carts and bicycles. With a motto to "go slow", mostly people do walk barefoot as the roads here are only narrow sandy lanes You can often see through to the other side of this skinny Caye. There is a thriving Rastafarian culture on the Caye, which pulses to a Reggae beat. The Caye was cut into two pieces as a result of Hurricane Hattie in 1961, creating the "Split" which separates the southern inhabited part from that of the northern which is mainly swamp. Mail goes out and comes in on Monday, Wednesday and Friday while veggies and fruit are brought in on Tuesday and Friday. Little shacks sell unrefrigerated produce along with freshly squeezed juices that are stored in coolers. The oceanfront rustic cemetery takes up prime real estate with it's rough handmade headstones.

My first experience swimming here was a slight scare. We were swimming in the Split when I realized that I was not a strong enough swimmer to swim back to shore against the current. Yes, I know all about swimming parallel to the current and not to panic but in reality when it happens, sometimes common sense does not prevail. All I could think about was how far I was going despite the fact I was trying harder. James could see me panic and came to my rescue. By the time I reached the concrete pilings near the shore, all I could feel was a terrible stinging sensation like cut glass on both arms. By the time we reached home, my arm was swollen with numerous jelly fish stings. We have since decided that the best beach to snorkel and swim is right next to our house where we snorkel daily! Luckily a bag of ice compress, chilled white wine and grilled fish soothed the pain not to mention the dark Mexican chocolate.

As I sit here, I hear a steady and unbroken chorus of roosters and tropical birds as if they are competing for the airwaves. The neighbours are doing their laundry by hand outdoors on the other side of me, almost as if creating a steady rhythm with their brush. A Rastafarian wearing dreadlocks, sunglasses and a red shirt is sitting on a picnic table in the shade laughing and singing. His songs are punctuated with Creole that I cannot understand but it definitely too has it's own beat. The odd golf cart slowly drives past carrying it's cargo of commodities…..essentials such as five gallon jugs of purified water or coolers of ice. I can hear the foreign sound of a phone ringing. The odd plane flies overhead during the day on a landing strip that seems much too small! There are no boundaries for the airport either as our walk yesterday ended up at the airstrip.

Our residence here is a plain blue three bedroom house, 150 feet away from the sea called Mando House. The house does not have any glass windows but rather levered wooden shutters with a rough screen covering the openings that somehow always manage to allow mosquitoes in every night to dine on Andy with no preference to any specific body part including eye lids! Liz and Enrico Novela rent out two homes on their property along with their own which is nestled in a backdrop of flowering vegetation as well as tropical almond trees. Liz who is gentle and warm, came to Belize from Guatemala as a young teenager on her own trying to make a living. She married Rico and they have been living on Caye Caulker for almost twenty years with two sons. Rico along with is brother operates Anwar Tours that specializes in snorkelling and dive trips. The office is next door where customers congregate on the picnic tables for their orientation before heading off to the Barrier Reef. The deck is where we eat our meals at night and relax during the day.

Locals make their living from fishing and tourism. We have been preparing our dinners with the fresh catch of the day from returning fishermen on the dock. On my daily morning walk yesterday, I encountered Marconi no older than 8 years old, catching barracudas off the dock. Barracudas remind me of miniature sharks and taste almost like halibut. I offered to purchase the fish and he happily agreed. Walking further along, I met Eli and Eugene who were off school for Spring Break, spending the morning climbing to the top of the Coconut trees. I decided that they too may like to make a sale and offered to purchase two coconuts with the agreement that they would crack them open for us. Less than an hour later, the two boys arrived on their bike with the ubiquitous Belizean machete. It was very apparent that the young brothers had done this many times before. Andy saved the coconut water to cook the barracuda in a coconut curry sauce he concocted. Later on in the day we met a Mayan woman from the Toledo District who was in our yard, selling her handmade goods as well as pure cocoa paste from her tree. Liz and Rico were also making cocoa purchases and she told us how labor intensive the process of making chocolate is as she did this in Guatemala while a child. The harvested and fermented beans are stored in southern Belize and sold to Green & Blacks for their renowned Maya Gold chocolate. The vendor, Adeline told us that out of 14 children, only seven were alive.

The majority of travellers to this wondrous Island make a snorkelling or diving trip to the Barrier Reef which is the second largest on the planet. We selected a tour operator called Raggamuffin as they use a fleet of sailboats to tour the Reef. Our Captain Patrick was talented and Jacob made some tasty food for the 18 passengers of the Sailboat Reggae Queen. Patrick made sure we kept hydrated as soon as we embarked on our journey to the Reef. The thought that stayed with me was that of the water looking like glistening Listerine Mouthwash. We had three stops on our day trip which included Coral Gardens, Shark Ray Alley and Hol Chan. I don't really know if I have the ability to describe the experience quite adequately. All I knew was that I would remember the day forever in my mind. We saw everything from huge schools of colourful fish swimming in perfect unison to large stingrays and sharks. We sailed home in the sunset while Patrick made three gallons of rum punch with dark and light Belizean spirits. All day long we munched on tropical fruit. On the way home we were served Shrimp Ceviche that Jacob made on the boat. What a beautiful memory!

I have met so many lovely people in our six days on the Island. Norma who cleans for Liz moved here from El Salvador and has nine children. Ignacio sells the weekly paper that comes in from Belize City on his bike. At 65 years old he reminds me that Caye Caulker is not what it used to be with some large buildings on the Island. Gerald sells us his daily catch of fish and uses the Chinese grocery store to weigh his catch.

At the end of the day we had prepared a local dinner of coconut curry barracuda that Marconi, Eugene and Eli helped make happen while the sea breeze rustled the air and the stars shone all around us. The chocolate was the crowning glory!

Yolanda

2010-04-04T08:14:00.000-07:00

One family that I would really like to share with readers of my blogs is that of Yolanda Ramirez. A mother of seven children ranging from 28 to 10 years old, she is a single parent trying not only to raise her children but to be a caregiver for her 14 year old son who is extremely disabled and has been bedridden with Juvenile Rheumatoid Arthritis since the age of 7. Yolanda is also grieving for the loss of her daughter who died of an enlarged heart at the age of 12 years. She receives no support from the fathers of her children. Yolanda lives on $200 Belize a month, which equates to $100 in U.S. She earns this by the $100 Belize that is given to her by the government, and the one day a week she works as a housecleaner for $25 Belize on Fridays. She tries to supplement her income by purchasing crates of coke and fanta to sell by the bottle. On a good week if the weather is really hot, she can sometimes sell 2 to 4 crates making $10 Belize ($5 U.S.) for every 24 bottles in the crate. Other ways of earning income is to offer her services of ironing for churches. Life is a constant struggle and it can be lonely to be the sole caregiver without having a break.

Saul cannot be left on his own so on the day she works, she must ask for the help of someone to sit with Saul. At the age of 7 Saul was diagnosed with Juvenile Rheumatoid Arthritis. Symptoms of the condition include swelling joints and pain in the hands and feet. Yolanda's morning starts very early. She must carry Saul into a plastic chair so that she can bathe him and brush his teeth. She has no bathroom, toilet or running water inside her home. Upon meeting Saul, I immediately felt Yolanda's pain when comparing that her son is TJ's age as he will be turning 15 on the 12th of May. I could not imagine how long the days must be for him lying on the sofa. Thank goodness Saul was given a television so that he can at least watch something to entertain him. The cost of raising a disabled child for most people anywhere is a struggle and a worry but for Yolanda in a country with an near non-existent social security program, it is a huge burden. The cost of diapers, baby wipes, lotion, shampoo, Tylenol and vitamins are something that she just cannot afford. She would love to be able to afford a three wheeled chair for Saul so that she can get him outside.

While we were talking one day, she had to come up with test fees for her youngest ten year old son Ronaldo. So many other incidentals that are free in our country are additional hardships for families, but even more for people who live under the poverty level. According to an article in the Belize Anglican News, the official government statistics showed an increase in those living below the poverty line. It used to be 33% and now it is at 43%.

Yolanda's house was built 5 years ago on leased land. She pays $35 per year to lease the land. A generous American man built and paid for Yolanda's house which I assumed was made with salvaged wood. During the rainy season which starts soon, the house floods 2 to 3 feet. She is presently requesting assistance from Pablo Marin, the local MP and Minister of Health. They are looking into the possibility of lifting up ground in her house to put a proper floor in. Presently the floor inside the house consists of tiny ridges and slopes. It would impossible at this point to push a wheelchair inside.

There are so many people who truly deserve financial assistance in Belize. I sincerely feel Yolanda is in genuine need of support. I am not specifically asking friends or family to send money to Yolanda but instead allowing people who were already searching for a cause to help. We are only in Belize for two more weeks and if in that time, anyone wants to join Andy and I in making a one time donation, please contact me by email.

A Family in Belize

2010-04-02T13:40:00.000-07:00

I had the pleasure and honour of being invited into a local Mestizo family home this week. About 45% of the population in Belize are considered Mestizo, descendants of mixed Spanish an indigenous blood. Upon arriving in Corozal, I had made acquaintance with Estela Cairrllo during our first week. We live a couple of blocks away from each other and her youngest children attend St. Paul's Anglican School. My first impression of Estela was that of admiration for a mother, who at 36 years old could juggle having seven children and appear to be very calm and sane!

Estlela told me that she has been with her common law husband Roland Catzim for 18 years. When they first met, Roland was away for a month at a time as a fisherman and only to returned home three days at a time. Estela did not want to raise her children with an absent husband thus Roland builds houses and works with masonry. This also allows dad to come home for the lunch hour with Edwin, who he works with, during their workday. They have lived in the same rented house for the past five years, having previously lived in a much smaller dwelling on College Rd. Since meeting the children two months ago I can quite easily say that they are extremely well mannered and cheerful. Edwin is the oldest at 18 years, followed by Cynthia 14 years, Carolos 13, Rolando 12, Edwardo 11, Darwin 6 and the newest member of the household a very sweet baby of 5 months called Diego. On this day two nephews were visiting too.

The day I arrived to interview Estela, she was hoping that her tank of Butane would be filled by the delivery men as using her outdoor fire creates too much smoke and is a labour intensive chore cleaning pots and pans after using an open flame. Estela showed me around her house, which included a small living room that had a hammock set up for baby Diego (I love that name!), a kitchen that leads out to the sheltered area which has an overhang that houses the outdoor cooking area, and one of three bedrooms which are partitioned off with curtains for the five boys.

Estela cooks a lot of beans and rice, which is a popular kid's choice of meal in Belize. Meat is expensive so she chooses to cook vegetarian five days a week. Now that the children are getting older, it would require two pounds of meat for a meal. Her family favourite is either Panades or tortilla with chicken, tomato and cabbage. Roland will sometimes leave the house at 5 AM to go net fishing. After finding personally that Chetumal was an unique shopping experience, and talking to the locals who frequent there, I asked Estela if she shopped in Mexico. She told me that you cannot travel to Mexico without a permit. You are required to carry two pieces of picture ID. To obtain a Mexican ID card is $30 for a permit that only lasts one year.

Estela told me that she has little skill with reading, and she stated that her husband has difficulty with literacy also. She attended the Methodist school until she was ten years old and had obtained class 3. Despite the fact that she lacks reading and writing skills, she is quite dedicated to helping her children do their homework at night. Sometimes she works at a restaurant where the owner encourages her to learn to take orders. The math calculating the bills come easily to her. On the days that she works, Cynthia is like a little mother to the children and Roland comes home at the end of the day to take over. But that is not the normal routine as she feels that working outside the home would be difficult with Diego. In addition, Cynthia will be looking for a job in September. Carlos, who is the third oldest in the family, truly wants to have the opportunity to attend Corozal Community College in September. When I asked about the high cost of tuition, she said that she was hoping that they would obtain two sponsors who would pay for his attendance. This would help her focus on paying text books, uniforms and misc. fees like fees for writing exams.

When I asked what a normal day at the house looked like, she responded that getting up at 6 AM was the norm. Lunch preparations must start by 11 AM. Most evenings her bedtime is 8 PM. Thankfully, laundry does not have to be done every day. I also asked if there was anything that she wanted Canadians to know. She responded without hesitation that she loves her life in Corozal and would not want to live anywhere else. She had visited Guatemala once and did not like it much. Just as I was giving thanks for her hospitality at the end of our talk the delivery men arrived and refilled the cylinders so that another lunch could be prepared. Diego was asleep in his hammock with the Canadian sticker still on his forehead.

School in Belize

2010-03-30T21:04:00.000-07:00

The education system in Belize is a British model of education. Schools in Belize come in three levels which is primary, secondary and tertiary. Primary schooling for 8 years is the only mandatory education. Secondary schools include the classification of forms. Many religious congregations operate the primary schools and secondary schools have a high element of religion in their classroom. Primary education is free but related expenses such as uniforms, books and test fees are definitely a financial strain for most families and especially so for the poor ones.

TJ has attended Corozal Community College and this is his TJ's Blog entry...

School in Canada is substantially different then the schooling in Belize. Teachers have a unique approach on punishment towards the students. They are a lot harder on students in the discipline side of classes. They use "The Demerit System" and staying after school hours is often the punishment of choice. Classes are usually chaotic and, at times can be controlled but sometimes have absolutely no direction simply because students wont shut up and no one seems to use the "put up your hand" method to speak. All of the noise and confusion usually results in the progress of classes to slow down. My classmates at school were great to say the least! We would constantly fool around in and out class hours and everyone was friendly. Lunch hour usually meant sitting around the large fruit tree outside of class and eating lunch from the snack bar. The choice of food included everything from the classic, "Rice N beans" to Tamales and tacos. All in all Corozal Community College was an excellent cultural learning opportunity. I wouldn't like to attend CCC full time but it was definitely an experience i will never forget.

Lamanai

2010-03-24T20:53:00.000-07:00

Set on the edge of the New River Lagoon, Lamanai is one of the largest Mayan sites in Belize. On Monday we booked a Jungle River Cruise out of Orange Walk to take us to the ruins. I felt intrigued as we drove past each village throughout the 45 minute journey. The similar sight in each location was masses of uniformed school children getting to school. Students doubled onto handle bars and as usual dogs roamed free amidst the activity. Vendors were preparing their roadside stalls for another day and every clapboard house seemed to have clothes on the line. Cars that seemed all too close to these activities sped past at extremely high speeds. Sugar cane workers were commuting in the back of empty flatbed trucks, though soon to be filled their harvest, with the wind whooshing in their faces. We were following a truck with passengers huddled in the back and I could not make out what the woman was holding in her arms. When we passed the vehicle, I saw that it was her baby that she had swaddled in a blanket while breastfeeding. We passed through towns with such names as Calcutta and San Pedro. The day was a little cooler to start off at 65 degrees which was the perfect temperature to start out before the day heated up.

Our guide Gilberto welcomed us into his small motor boat for the 2.5 hour trip that totally enthralled us. Captivating and adventurous, we loved every part of our journey, passing numerous crocodiles, colourful birds and turtles. My favourite was the Jesus Christ bird that can walk on water. The proper name is the Northern Jacana but it's the vegetation that holds the long toed bird above the water looking for edibles. Our guide stopped the boat when he saw two spider monkeys. Gilberto gave Andy a banana and instructed him to pass it to the monkey unpeeled. The monkey jumped into the boat for such an offer and proceeded to devour the fruit while staring us intently in the eye. After ingesting her meal, she was looking for more than an appetizer so she proceeded to try and lift the lid of the cooler. Before she exited the boat, she walked around the ledge of the boat peering into our eyes. The amount of laughter in the boat could not be stifled and perhaps could be heard from a distance. Entertainment at it's finest!

Andy seemed to have the knack of losing his hat in the wind. Twice Gilberto caught the wayward cap before it exited the boat. The third time he was unsuccessful but managed to turn back to allow Andy to retrieve it from the water. Our guide reminded him that the water was infested with crocs. Strangely enough that was the last time he accidentally lost his hat.

When we reached the ruins, we were treated to a meal of Mayan stewed chicken that was cooked on an open fire, potato salad, coleslaw and the National Dish of Belize.........."Rice and Beans". We ate in a palapa with the backdrop of the forested lagoon. Our guide directed us to the ruins to give us an extensive tour. It was believed to have served as an imperial port city at the height of its power. 728 buildings have been identified at the site but only five are available for visitors to view. Lamanai is believed to have been occupied from 1500 B.C. to the 19th century. At its peak, Lamanai was home to more than 55,000 Mayans. The temples that we saw were the Mask Temple, the High Temple which we climbed for a breathtaking view above the canopy of trees and over the river. The Ball Court held great ritual significance and we each had our turn to throw the rubber ball. You can hear howler monkeys echoing and we were lucky enough to actually look at them closeby. Our guide also pointed out to us a beautiful toucan

I had woke up that morning with a slight pain and wondered if I was having problems with something I had ingested. Just as we were cautiously climbing down the ruin in the blazing sun (while crossing our fingers), I knew that something was wrong. Luckily there are washrooms available in Lamanai unlike some other public areas. I found myself in a terrible predicament, which was not being able to leave the washroom when our guide wanted us to be ready at the dock. The boat ride back to Orange Walk was going to be only 90 minutes, as we had already done our exploring on the river, but the ride back was torturous especially for the fact that stopping was not a possibility because of the Morelet's Crocodiles that live in the river. I was a very grateful passenger by the time we reached shore and quickly ran into the hotel where we had docked. The adventure continued!

Oops! This blog was meant for the last batch of photos.

2010-03-22T18:42:00.000-07:00

Things as usual have sped by the last week. Another trip to Mexico but this time with James and TJ. Andy generously offered to take the rickety three hour bus ride to Belize City so we could have the vehicle to drive to the boat dock. We overspent in Mexico and actually had to put back a few grocery items as we went over the remaining 1300 pesos we had. Nevertheless we had a good laugh and a great day!

We were delighted to welcome Bishop Cyrus Pitman from the Diocese of Eastern Newfoundland and Labrador to join us for lunch on Monday of last week. He traveled with Canon Eric Richards, a long-serving priest in active retirement in our neighbouring parish of Orange Walk, and Stephen, who works in the Diocesan Office and helps with youth ministry. After a quick trip to the market, Andy harvested the bananas from the backyard so I could make a banana cake to serve with our meal.

Bishop Cy(rus) was visiting Belize for a week to enter into an agreement of companionship between the two dioceses that will encourage visits between clergy and lay people between these two very different parts of the world, and projects in ministry that they can share together. Andy met with the companion diocese committee in Belize City on Wednesday to observe how the partnership was being planned, and he came away impressed by the range of input and the goals they have in mind for helping out with parishes, schools, youth programs, and building projects, among other things. The January trip to Labrador should be quite an experience for some of the Belizeans who have not been to Canada before! He also noted for the committee that it is actually further to travel from BC to Nfld than it is to travel from Victoria to Belize.

James celebrated his 23rd birthday on Friday. After Andy picked such a large cluster of bananas, I thought everyone would get sick of the same chocolate banana cake I make. I tweaked the recipe minus the cocoa and fried some fresh pineapple in Belizean honey for an upside down cake with figs, local bananas and dates......topped off with a hibiscus from our front yard. James travels to Belize City Thursdays on the bus to help at the Anglican Cathedral School and returns Friday night. We had picked up Mexican Rib Eye steak and Belizean veggies with a bottle of Mexican Merlot. James arrived home at 8 PM just on cue for his birthday dinner!

Guests and a Birthday

2010-03-20T22:12:00.001-07:00

Bureaucracy and a Day in Mexico

2010-03-15T07:18:00.000-07:00

We are breathing a sigh of relief after getting approved documentation to allow us to stay in Belize until our planned departure. Normally tourists are permitted a maximum stay of 30 days and a month extension will usually be granted. The extensions are handled on a case by case basis and cost $50 Belize per person. The staff at the Anglican Diocese in Belize City have been working on our behalf to obtain approval for us to stay the duration of our mission as volunteers and without paying fees every month. The rather lengthy process seemed to go on forever. The Immigration Office is just a three minute walk away from our house. The Officer who was working on our case, did not seem overly pleased that we were going to be getting away without paying our monthly dues. We had just met a Canadian woman who said that after six months, the monthly extension fees jump to $100. Andy and I had planned to take a boat from Consejo to Chetumal Mexico on the day we were approved the extension by fax by a government official in Belize City. The boat departs from a "gringo" development but only runs once a week on Wednesdays. We had determined that there was only one day he could juggle his Wednesday obligations. The catch was that we could not leave Belize without having our papers in order. Belize charges a departure fee of $19 U.S. per person to leave the country by land or $3.75 U.S. by boat which makes travelling by boat more appealing. To make a long story shorter, it would have definitely seemed that the Officer was trying her best to stall our plans for catching the boat. When we got to the end of the process, she insisted that we had to go to make photocopies (for her records!) of our passports. Luckily for us, when we arrived at the boat dock, it was 30 minutes late leaving and we just walked on after paying our departure fee.

My first impression was that of the size of the boat carrying everyone who was going to Chetumal with the intentions of filling up their large and wheeled carry on shopping carts. Hmm........it seemed like the boat was weighted down already with the amount of passengers and the thought of the extra merchandise on our return journey definitely entered my mind more than once. The passengers happily chatted about what they had planned on buying in the shopping mecca during the 8 minute journey. Everyone had their fair share of water splashes whether that be to clothing or hair but everyone took it in good humour......after all shopping is retail therapy isn't it? We passed through mangrove swamps and my mind wandered to my guide book information I had previously read about the American Crocodile being an inhabitant of those exact areas. Yikes! Even the elusive life jackets would have been a little more comforting had we needed them.

We docked at a tiny pier where we were required to fill out tourists cards in a very small office and then we were on our way. We were really impressed with Chetumal as we walked past the Palace of the Governor. We walked further and entered Sam's Club just to take a peek. We hailed a taxi and drove to Plaza Las America which is an indoor air conditioned mall much like Woodgrove Centre with a large food court. We really had no notion of what we were looking for but the experience was fun. As we were nearing our time to leave and catch a cab back to the dock, we passed a Supermarket............truly a real supermarket that enticed us both inside. To our amazement there was plenty of the foods that I had been craving. We wondered how much we could pack in our packsacks and at one point even debated on whether we should purchase a cooler as we only had one backpack each. Eventually common sense prevailed and we made it to the checkout with everything from Organic Mexican coffee, Gourmet Mexican Chocolate and things we could not purchase in Belize.......good bread. The bakery reminded us of home except the way the customer selects the items. First you take a aluminum platter and with tongs, you place all your intended purchases and pass to the lady who weighs your baked items. The store was clean, attractive and food handlers wore masks. Time was of the essence to catch our boat back to Belize but we were having fun......and I wanted more time to wander up and down the aisles looking at products and to read labels........even if I don't understand Spanish. I honestly did not think grocery shopping could be this much fun. By the time we were at the check out, our bill came to 925 pesos. Our cab ride back to the boat including a 33% tip came to 20 pesos........less than $2 Canadian.

Upon arriving safely back in Belize, we were met by Immigration Officers who were sitting at a plastic table under the palm trees. They requested that we open up our backpacks for inspection. There is a long list of foods that are not allowed back into Belize such as Pasta, Rice, Soft Drinks, Meat and Produce. We had our passports stamped and we were on our way.

Guess where I am going to next Wednesday?

Images of Corozal..........People and Places

2010-03-02T20:21:00.000-08:00

We have been in Belize for four weeks now. I feel like we have a rhythm and purpose to our day. Initially it would be fair to say that I was not adjusting as best as I could have. The last week has left me feeling more comfortable in my new environment and actually feeling like I could belong as a temporary resident.

Festivities seem to be celebrated frequently. At "Miami Beach" (nothing like the other Miami Beach, and no luxury condos!) which is just a three minute walk away from our house, there seems to be something celebrated most weekends. The seaside road closes off to vehicular traffic and music is played in the large, thatched shelter - locals refer to this as the Roundhouse Palapa - often until very late at night. We even were lucky enough to follow a convoy of vehicles that included the Chinese New Year Dragons. The participants entered each store for celebration and good luck. When they departed from each business, firecrackers were let off and I felt the joy and excitement around me. Valentine's Day had an all day music/food/dancing along the seawall on Miami Beach. Last weekend the East Indian community held their event which highlighted dancers,coconut grating contest, Masala rubbing and a horse and carriage ride.

After school and frequently until late at night, families gather to eat and visit on the beach and under the numerous palapas. The atmosphere usually includes small children running around and perhaps music blaring from a speaker in a parked vehicle while either snacking or eating a meal together amidst a beautiful location. I find it inspiring that there seems to be all the time in the world to stay after dark.

Corozal is located on a beautiful turquoise Bay. The town is compact with a population of 9,000, the streets laid out in a basic grid system. While driving on the Streets and approaching the Avenues, one must know to stop regardless of the missing stop signs. I cautiously slow down even when it is my right of way as drivers here tend to have their own rules of the road.

My favourite time of the day is when Andy and I take an early morning walk after he drives TJ to school and before the temperature rises. Whatever direction we take on our walk, the common denominator that we encounter are the primary, uniformed students. Many young children navigate the busy roads on their own riding a bike. Kids in Belize play outside after school and when I saw two children playing in a dirt pile yesterday, it took me back to when I was a kid doing the same thing. The people that I have met generally have larger families but their houses do not reflect that in size compared to North America's average dimensions. As I see it, getting your children outside to play is a healthy thing! The soft pastel shades of the houses are unique even though most have peeling paint. I see all the goodness and have become comfortable enough to ignore the strewn garbage that is so prevalent here. What I cannot ignore, and what truly disturbs me, is the canine population. I feel pain on a daily basis to see dogs that either roam the streets looking for food or those who are chained for endless hours. Some dogs seem to have skin disorders perhaps exacerbated by the hot sun and lack of proper nutrients. Yesterday I saw an older man walking his dog.......a happy and seemingly healthy pooch. walking a dog on a leash is something that almost stands out of the norm here.

At any given time of the day, it seems you can hear vendors selling their products. Frequently bike vendors will be riding around the neighbourhood ringing their bell. Yesterday we purchased cinnamon buns at our driveway. Every morning our alarm clock could sound something like that of a clown's horn with the shout of "Baked Goods" Every evening in Corozal near the clock tower square, Grackles congregate in the trees. The first time I heard the sound, it felt like something out of Alfred Hitchcock movie "The Birds". Now I think it is quite entertaining. As this paragraph has to do with the sounds we hear in Corozal, I asked James and TJ what sounds they would describe hearing on a daily basis. The response I got was barking dogs, the roosters including one that starts crowing at 1:30 in the morning, sugar cane trucks with exhaust systems that backfire while we are trying to talk in the house, and other unique bird calls. You can be guaranteed to hear music blaring out of at least a few house. We just laughed about the other sound we hear on weekday mornings........."I can't believe that school starts this early.........I just can't get out of bed!"

One last comment I have about Corozal is how friendly the residents are. No one is too shy to say hello, smiles are given out generously and even when there is a language barrier (me not speaking Spanish or understanding the Creole), people really go out of their way to make you comfortable in their hometown.

I am not going to blog about a very sad event that happened this week. Instead I will ask readers to read Andy's blog about the tragedy. The memories of the service, the walking procession behind the pick-up truck with the tiny white casket and the burial will be forever etched in my mind. I have since met with the young family to offer our help, if in the event they may need some assistance. Just in the short time we have been in Corozal, we have never ceased to be shocked at how many deaths there has been in each family. Please hold your loved ones closer to your heart tonight.

Split Peas, Pig Tail and Rice and Beans

2010-02-26T20:37:00.000-08:00

Split peas, Pig Tail, RIce and Beans..........

Shopping for food in Belize is an experience in itself. My first reaction was that of panic when I discovered the limitations I was feeling in noticing the absence of some of my favourite foods. No one could argue about the traditional food of Belize being Rice and Beans, which is not to be confused with Beans and Rice. A sister dish, but definitely different, is beans-and-rice, which is the stewed beans served with white rice (not cooked together). I have come to the conclusion that this has to be a favourite dish as when I asked two separate classes what their favourite food would be, the unanimous response was "Rice and Beans!" Belizeans are proud of their National Dish. Another staple Belizean dish is Ceviche with Conch and Shrimp. My first attempt started one morning while on an early walk. A young boy asked us if we wanted to buy lobster. In my ignorance, I truly thought we were buying lobster until he placed the conch in my hand. On the internet I discovered that lobster is another name for conch. I was curious how the boy could sell seafood and get to school on time and when I asked him what school he attended, his response was that he did not attend school. When we got home, I cut the conch into tiny pieces and boiled it for a very short time. Conch is very notorious for being tough. I added the juice of several limes, tomatoes, cilantro, onions and cucumbers.

The breakfast favourites seem to be either Fry Jacks which are fluffy fried dough crescents or Johnny Cakes which are flattened baking powder biscuits. The latter I successfully made without measuring utensils or cups! Most of the coffee served in this country is instant despite the local coffee industry. Mexican fast food stands can be found everywhere in Belize with options of Tamales and garnaches which are crispy tortillas under a small mound of tomatoes, cabbage, cheese and the ubiquitous Marie Sharpe hot sauce. Numerous Chinese restaurants can be found everywhere. James and TJ have had fun with take outs more than once. Tonight it was chop suey, sweet and sour chicken and chow mein. I was shocked to see the amount of earth "unfriendly" styrofoam used in Belize for anything disposable.......despite having said that....I have yet to see anything in aluminum cans. The soda is like a blast from the past with the long glass coke and fanta bottles and all beer comes in bottles as well.

The Mennonites supply the domestic market with eggs, dairy, fresh milk, cheese and vegetables. They also are involved with cattle and feed farming. Practicing organic farming, they grow peanut, potato, corn, beans, tomato, watermelon, carrot, papaya, sweet pepper (green peppers are called sweet peppers here because they are not hot peppers), cabbage and cilantro. Everyday there is fresh cilantro at the market. They are easily identified by their old fashioned apparel. The women wear long, dark dresses with aprons and hats while the men wear coveralls, checkered shirts and cowboy hats. I have not seen them as vendors in the market but have seen them supplying their products to the vendors.

Food can even be purchased on your doorstep if you happen to hear the daily morning call of "Baked Goods" along with a distinctive squeaky bike horn. Panades are little meat pies and sold all over town on numerous bikes.

The things people may notice being different from kitchens in Canada would perhaps be the painted, brown concrete floor, cold water only in taps, open face shelving that exposes the plumbing and three very large empty vegetable oil containers holding our supply of water. The rat traps under the counter are luckily for us intact and empty. We have resident geckos also in the kitchen who have a nightly ritual of leaving us little droppings on the counter for us to wake up to. Our decor on our counter would be that of local jumbo pineapples (note the plural). I have given up trying to keep the kitchen free of the ever present film of dust and layer of dirt on everything. In the end, coffee still is as satisfying especially after locating a local Belizean source of organic java. Ahhh! Don't you just love it when some things are the same?

Here is a recipe for Rice and Beans for fun!

1 lb. Red Kidney Beans
2 cloves Garlic (crushed)
1 tsp. Salt 1 cup coconut Milk (either squeezed from grated coconut or bought prepared, canned, or made from powered variety) I use the powder.
½ tsp. Black pepper
½ tsp. Thyme
2 lbs. cleaned Rice
1 medium Onion (sliced)
6-8 cups of water
1 small pigtail or salt beef or pieces of bacon

Method

1. Wash the beans, then soak beans for 4 hours, using the 6-8 cups of water. If you are using distilled water, then soaked beans only needs 2 hours to soften.

2. Boil beans until tender, with the garlic, onion and pig’s tail/or salted beef or bacon pieces. Note: pre-wash the pigtail or salt beef and cut off excess fat. You can use a pressure cooker to cut down on the time.

3. Season beans with black pepper, thyme and salt. Note: You may opt not to add the salt if you used salt beef or pigtail above.

4. Add coconut milk. Stir and then let boil.

5. Add rice to seasoned beans. Stir, then cover. Cook on low heat until the water is absorbed and rice is tender. If necessary, add more water gradually until rice is tender. Note: Usually, one cup of rice absorbs two cups of water, although rice grains can vary in the amount of water they absorb.

Uniforms,School Children, Mad Dogs and Boa Constrictors

2010-02-20T20:51:00.000-08:00

We are settling into a seemingly predictable schedule yet inevitably with unpredictable results. TJ appears to be enjoying 1st Form at Corozal Community College but he would rather die than admit it to me. After all........he was supposed to be home schooled but his mother deviously changed her mind and enrolled him in local school! Lack of qualification was my plea. None the less...........he looks handsome in his new uniform with the green epaulettes.
The highlight of my day is the afternoons when I volunteer at St. Paul's by the Sea Anglican Primary School. There are currently 180 students in the school that is connected to the church by a common courtyard. The backdrop is the amazing view of Corozal Bay which is a continuation of the Caribbean Sea, punctuated by palms. I love it when I get to engage the class in conversation especially when I read to them but mostly I work one on one.
This morning I drove to the market instead of walking with my backpack as I had planned on buying fresh chicken. Everything has to be orchestrated in a different key here rather than at home. Food preparation takes more effort and time as space and supply offers. I had just enough time to get my errands done before I walked to school after lunch. After crossing the busy highway that leads to Mexico, a large,vicious, black dog appears out of nowhere and attempts to attack me. The dog is going for my face and all I can think about is getting away. I manage to run to the parallel lane where the dog corners me. As I am screaming, I look for help at the house I am next to but the lady walks away from the open doorway. My heart beating through my mouth, I feel so lucky that I am unscathed and intact and run home as fast as I can. Andy and I decide to drive to where the incident took place only to find the dog chained in the yard of that very same house! The owner admits his wife saw the dog trying to attack me and agrees to Andy's request to keep the dog on a chain. Yikes! My daily walk to school now must include a detour for safety. Thoughts of a black dog baring his teeth are soothed after spending time with the children. I took these photos today to share with everyone.
Yesterday morning as Andy and I went for a walk, I noticed a large snake dead in our driveway. I reasoned that the snake must have been poisonous as it had a geometric pattern of diamonds on it's skin. When Marco arrived that morning, instead of asking him cooking or food questions, I ask him if he can identify the snake for me. My reaction to his response that it was a Boa Constrictor initially makes me laugh nervously. We reason that Andy must have killed the snake when he drove over it taking TJ to school. What a hero! Now I refuse to walk through long grass!!

Reflections of Corozal

2010-02-13T18:02:00.001-08:00

Papayas Grow in Corozal

2010-02-13T17:46:00.000-08:00

Driving to Corozal from Belize City took two hours including a stop for soft chicken tacos at a roadside stand in Orange Walk. The land here is low and plain with vast fields of sugar cane and the road is paved and narrow. We have been advised against driving in the dark due to the unlit ubiquitous speed bumps on The Northern Highway and the lack of street lights.
Corozal is a quiet seaside town only eight miles from the border of Chetumal Mexico and has 9,000 inhabitants. Spanish is spoken prevalently.
Upon arriving eight days ago, we were greeted by Marco and Graham who have been working on our house non stop. The interior of the house has been freshly painted with a robin egg blue and a sage green trim. I keep pinching myself to think that we have such a dazzling turquoise blue water view to look at from our house! Andy and TJ swim in the water which is only a mere walk across the road. We found out yesterday that there are crocodiles in that very area when the water gets murky. Yikes! There is a steady stream of traffic passing by our house at all hours of the day and night. Yesterday an 18 wheeler semi lost it's front wheel next to our house. How lucky that no one was hurt. Passengers who sit in the back of an open truck are a common sight.
School started for TJ on Monday at Corozal Community College which is 1.5 miles away from our house.. The only way to purchase a uniform is to buy the required fabric and have a tailor sew it. The tailored white shirt includes epaulettes and khaki pants. I think he looks pretty sophisticated now! TJ seems to like school and has been making friends. Getting to school at 7:30 is a new challenge as everything starts early here.
Our first night was torture with the canine residents and unfortunate for us, we live next door to some very large guard dogs who insist on serenading us through the entire night. After 2 PM, I successfully found earplugs that gave me some much needed relief.
We were greeted at St. Paul's by the Sea on the first Sunday with a packed service including the children from the connecting Anglican school. It was so very heartwarming to have so many people attending. Bishop Philip Wright conducted the service which included prayers for Andy, James, TJ and myself.
My daily routine also includes an afternoon visit to the school where I am helping with literacy on a one to one basis. To familiarize myself with the children, I visited two classrooms and read to each class. I wanted to engage them in conversation and suggested we could have a show of hands indicating how many children had dogs. Much of the class raised their hands and to my amusement just as many hands were lifted when I asked how many children did not have a dog. Smiles are given more than generously and whenever I am outside in the shade with a student, there are always curious onlookers nearby. These children have the most wonderful and loving hearts. I truly love them and feel quite popular in their company. It is so sad to think that some children are HIV positive. Frequently to my delight while walking in Corozal, I hear "Hello Miss Sandy".
We have just got WiFi in the house. We were surprised how expensive the service is and how SLOW the connection is. Getting this blog posted will definitely take some patience.
Our morning quest usually consists of going to the market and searching for fruit and veggies. Local papayas and pineapples are our favourites. There is not a huge selection of veggies and basically all the vendors sell the same varieties. We became friends with Dora who sold us a humungous papaya and Antonio who sells us his tiny apple bananas that are sold for $1.The Mennonites raise fresh poultry so we have been eating chicken frequently. Today on our walk, we were greeted by a very young boy who was selling conch (pronounced conk and also known locally as lobster). When I asked him what school he attended, his response was that he instead worked with his dad fishing. We decided to buy some to celebrate James arriving yesterday from Mexico. Although it is the meat from a shell, it reminds me of octopus and not overcooking it can be quite a challenge. We all agreed today at lunch that conch needs lots of chewing. Hmmmm......I hope that is not a reflection of my culinary skills which have been put to the test recently! The first day I arrived home after paying an over inflated tourist's price for red snapper, Marco was quite shocked to think that I was throwing the head away........yup.......eyeballs and all in the trash. He insisted I cook the most nourishing part of the fish to make soup. Without any recipe and a quick run to the market, I concocted up a curry fish soup and to my amazement it was delicious. Marco is now my cooking guru. It is him whom I ask when I cannot figure out what to do with an oddly shaped vegetable that has an unrecognizable name.
Our SUV has broken down more than once but luckily Marco has a broad range of skills besides sharpening my knife! The vehicle is now once again back on the road for us to share. Andy also purchased a new bike to give us options and especially for when he will be away more than a couple of days on the road leaving us carless.
Our next door neighbour Mr. Chavez invited us to a party last night at his house. The food was mostly Mexican/Belizean and the music lively. At one point Andy and I decided to join in the dancing. Fancy footwork is not our strength but at one point everyone oohed and ahhed and clapped. Initially I was curious at to whether I missed something but alas they definitely were applauding either our lack of skill or bravery but I highly doubt it was our talent! My next challenge was to try and be gracious and stifle my laughter. I wanted to laugh until I cried. Mr. Chavez lives in quite an opulent house. The wealthy in Belize is definitely a minority.
Going and leaving our house requires a locking a series of doors, gates and chains. Even our washing machine must be chained and padlocked. Whenever we are out and about, the jingle of keys can be heard in our pockets.
I was sworn at very loud this morning at the market with some pretty vulgar words when I refused to give a Creole man any money. He was shouting profanities to me which definitely caught everyone's attention. Luckily this is the exception. The people of Corozal have been very welcoming. Every time I hear Miss Sandy on the street, my heart leaps with joy.

Saying Goodbye to Friends

2010-02-04T20:57:00.000-08:00

Today is our last day in Belize City. The city was busy today with tourists with three cruise ships in the port to be tendered. We will come back for visits from time to time during our stay in Corozal. We will visit Cordelia and purchase pineapples. We took two for the road today. We will visit Irene who sells the best selection of produce and Mr Cadrones who owns the bakery. We may even meet up with Emmerson the wood carver on the seawall or John the self appointed tour guide.

Reflections of Belize City

2010-02-04T19:42:00.000-08:00

A Pineapple a Day and a Cacophony of Dogs

2010-02-03T19:33:00.000-08:00

After an uneventful flight to Seattle and afterwards an overnight in Dallas Fort Worth Texas, we were almost denied boarding our flight to Belize. American Airlines seemed to think that Visas were necessary. Luckily after what seemed like ages, we were issued our tickets and on our way. Prior to that while we were standing at the ticket desk, I was psyching myself to think that the hotel we stayed at wasn't that bad to return for another evening despite the freezing temperature. The microwaved egg sandwiches in the lobby restaurant were even okay.

As we flew over the jungle of Belize, my first impression was that of amazement. Lush green trees that seemed to go on forever were the palate of the landscape from up above. Belize City doesn't really seem like I city...... I have been told that there are three traffic lights but have yet to see any. We are staying in the Diocese Guest House which is situated one building away from the Caribbean Sea. The weather is hot and humid for us but apparently the locals are telling us this is not hot.

Bordered to the north by Mexico and to the west and south by Guatemala, Belize has the largest barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere. The country is relatively small with a population of 275,000. The largest ethnic group is Creole.....descendants of British Settler and African slaves. The majority of Creoles reside in Belize City. Half of the population is Mestizo which is a mix of Spanish and Native American heritage. The Garifuna represent another large ethnic segment of African slaves and the Carib and Arawak Indians. There are also Mennonites, Belizean and ancient Mayans.

One could say that walking through Belize City stimulates all senses. There is definitely a Caribbean flavour to this Central American country. Walking in the streets of Belize, one must continually gaze down at the haphazardly edged sidewalks. The city has been a hotspot in the country for serious crime and yesterday this was in the headlines http://edition.channel5belize.com/?p=27643
Despite the dangers that the citizens face, the people are warm and friendly. The intoxicating aroma of food from street vendors and restaurants are everywhere, as is noxious vehicle fumes and open sewers. We have been regular customers with Cordelia who sells mouth watering, fresh pineapple and have met Emmerson by the seawall next to our guest house. At first glance, Emmerson appeared to be a weathered older man riding a bike but when he stopped to carve his piece of mahogany wood with his machete next to where we were sitting (yes we had that thought too), we soon found out he was our age. Andy was playing his guitar and the waters had few lights in the port after the cruise ships left.

The staff at the Anglican Diocese in Belize City have been incredibly helpful and supportive. Cecile (who is the Bishop's secretary) took us out for a seafood lunch yesterday. Today the Bishop took us out for a beautiful lunch that included grilled conch. Tomorrow the Bishop will be taking us to the Cayo district which is close to the Guatemala border. Joe took us to the Belize zoo today which houses the endangered species of Belize. What an afternoon!

My last impression of Belize City was tonight on our way home from the Supermarket. A ramshackle house was getting moved and while it slowly inched its way though the streets in the darkness, we noticed two men standing on the top of the moving house. One man in rubber boots would lift the sagging power lines with a 1x4 wooden stick, while the other man would push down on the metal roofing to allow the house to proceed. People congregated everywhere to watch the spectacle.

We will travel to Corozal on Friday morning to see the parish we will be serving in. St. Paul by the Sea we are told is a gorgeous location and is eight miles from the Mexican border.

One last comment is that of the dog residents in the city. Dogs roam freely in the city so today on my morning seawall walk, I was surprised to see a dog owner walking his dog on a leash. My surprise turned to that of shock. While holding onto the leash, the owner threw his dog into the sea. Maybe this is a new thing........express dog wash! While I write this, the nightly cacophony of dogs barking, rings in my ears. Our resident dogs, Lassie and Rambo live in the yard of the Diocese Guest House. They are quite the characters but I am starting to think they are nocturnal.

Packing our Bags for Belize

2010-01-28T18:22:00.000-08:00

Suitcases strewn on the floor, I select the one that appears to be the heaviest and ask Andy to weigh it. It is my 50th Birthday today and when he says "you are 51", I promptly correct him and say I am only 50!

I have just received the coroner's report of Andrew's postmortem examination and toxicology findings. Our time away in Belize is just that.....timely.

My birthday seems much more significant. Another birthday is a gift in itself.